(09-22-2015, 03:13 PM)loucar1986 Wrote: thanks man... could u recomend editing software?
anyone else have any ideas about posing, outfits or anything? im hanging out with her on friday
Hi,
don't have more time at present ... to be continued (hopefully)
There is editing software and there is editing software.
You told you want to do indoor shooting.
Light conditions
- Indoor shooting - no additonal flashes
If you have a tall and wide Window (floor deep) / glas-Door. Try to do it close to it. You might need a bright and sunny day, but if possible try to avoid direct soonbeams falling through your window. Creating deep shadows and overexposed areas in your background and a hard edge between them. You will have trouble to find the right camera settings todo a whole shooting, espcially if you use some automatic mechnisms of your camera. This is like garbage in / garbage out.
But you could use it if you have a light white roller blind that could act as diffusor of direct sunlight falling through your window.
I do macrophotography in such conditions. And use a reflector for the sides / backside of the objects. But I used a white linen sheet so far, but it creates the wrong hue in reflection (I supose it is the laundry detergent component that transforms UV-light into visible white light)
Maybe have a look at something like this (one of the first google search results):
http://www.briteklighting.com/photograph...raphy.html
Or search eg. in Amazon for "photography reflector".
Camera settings
- turn on RAW mode
First thing you should do, which should be possible with your camera. Do change your settings for your camera to shoot in RAW format (and highest resolution jpeg - mabye it is also named "RAW + L" on your camera).
- try that you set the aperture as you want on a DSLR, because you have to deal with depth of field:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
- try to avoid too high ISO because you will have noise like crazy and you can forget the pictures.
- if possible for the beginning try to have serial shots - don't know the english expression - 3 pics in serial. One overexposed one underexposed one normal. On Canon cameras in the setting you can choose either steps by 1/2 or 1/3 aperture between -2 / +2. And you can shift the "normal" exposure. You will find that useful selecting the pictures you like. But be aware that this makes a whole picture set with different exposures. It will look very inconsistent. Maybe only use it to find the right exposure you want to use for the setting.
Editing Software
Now I didn't ask for the OS you use ...
But when I said there is editing software and there is editing software you might consider two different types of software. Raw Converters and Picture manipulating software.
Under normal conditions your jpeg do have 24 bits colour depth. 8 bit per 3 channels. Now you camera can do more. Maybe 10 or 11 or more bit per colour channel. This means your JPEG is an autooptimized result out of these picture informations. If you take your RAW file you still have the orginal informations.
- RAW converter
If you don't want to retouch a pimple + a few other things or manipulate the background a RAW converter software can be already enough for your needs. This software can work through a lot of things (some a bit more) like:
- camera and camera lens corrections (some)
- white point (better already do this in your camera settings)
- histogram adjustments (you tell what is really dark and what is bright and everything inbetween)
- sharpness or smoothing
- noise reduction
- etc. etc. etc.
I know three free software: Rawtherapee, Lightzone and Darktable (Linux).
Just two weeks ago I started to use a licensed version of Corel After Shot Pro 2. And then there is the "leader" every software tries ot measure up to: Adobe Lightroom.
Your choice ... Try the free ones first. One of them is too slow on opening large folders and loading the previews. Can't remember which one - drives me nuts. I'm quite happy with what these RAW converters provide in functionality to improve the pictures.
And try to keep the pictures of one set as close as possible together in brightness and darkness and in overall appearance. Maybe use the same workflow to all pictures of that same set. Only do minor adjustments different from that workflow for some of the pictures. I've seen famous examples from the BIZ who are not able to keep this the same appearance, because the photographer and editor seems not to have any clue about photography. Maybe they just don't want to, because they are not interested in what their clients think about the picture quality.
- picture editing software
(maybe other people can help out more here)
I used a lot of different free software in the past, nearly for 10 years always the same one, but it was very out dated. But now I switched these too. Since 2 weeks I also use Corel Paint Shop Pro X8 Ultimate.
Can't help with recent free software recommendation here. People always try to compare GIMP with Adobe Photoshop. But this won't really work - Photoshop users will tell you. I use the Corel, because I was used to it in the past already.
And I hope I don't need to edit this again - the 15 min. editing limit isn't very useful for such posts.